Acoustic Guitar Preamp Systems Origin of Manufacture - Important info about preamp systems.

 


I hate to say it, but most preamp acoustic guitar systems are manufactured in China!!!

Designed and manufactured in the United States, specifically out of their facility in Nipomo, California.  This is my go to when upgrading or replacing a Preamp for an acoustic guitar. You won't be sorry if you purchase an LR Baggs System. I recommend the Anthem system. For guitars that can't accommodate the full Anthem system. The Anthem SL will do the trick.  

LR Baggs Anthem System

LR Baggs Anthem SL


๐Ÿ›  Notes on Components

  • While the core electronics and systems are USA-made, individual components (like chips, buttons, specific plastic parts, or outsourced boards) could come from various suppliers overseas  that’s common in electronics manufacturing, but the final assembly, testing, and calibration is done in the U.S. by LR Baggs.

Most Fishman acoustic-guitar preamp systems are associated with the company’s design and engineering in the United States, but the full manufacturing picture has a couple of parts worth understanding:

USA Headquarters & Design

  • Fishman is an American company based in Andover, Massachusetts, where it designs and develops its pickups, preamps, amplifiers, and related technologies.

  • They’ve invested in a manufacturing and prototyping facility in that location, including a production studio and test labs.

๐Ÿ›  Manufacturing Reality (Mixed Global Supply)

  • While Fishman’s core design and engineering HQ is in the U.S., many of the actual electronics components and assemblies are typically sourced and manufactured overseas, especially in advanced electronics hubs in Asia (e.g., China, Southeast Asia). This is common in the musical instrument electronics industry to manage costs and supply chain efficiencies.

  • The exact balance of U.S. assembly versus overseas manufacturing can vary by product line (some higher-end preamps might have more domestic assembly, while basic parts or boards might be made elsewhere).

๐Ÿงฉ How It Usually Works

  • Fishman engineers the circuits, prototypes, and tests them in Massachusetts.

  • Components like PCBs, buttons, displays, and some passive parts are often manufactured by third-party partners abroad.

  • Final assembly, calibration, QA, and integration is done either in the U.S. or through vetted manufacturing partners depending on the product.


In short:
✔️ Fishman’s preamp systems are designed and developed in the USA.
⚙️ Many individual components — and sometimes partial assembly — happen overseas through contract manufacturers, but under Fishman’s design and quality controls.

Would you like a breakdown of which specific models are more likely to be primarily U.S. assembled vs fully overseas produced? (There is variation between entry-level and pro-series systems.)

Here’s the “secret” that almost nobody talks about when it comes to acoustic guitar preamp/tuner systems:

๐Ÿ”ฅ The preamp matters more than the pickup.

Most players obsess over whether they have a Fishman, LR Baggs, under-saddle, soundhole, etc. But the real tone shaping — and most of the problems — come from the preamp circuit, not the pickup itself.

Let’s break down the secrets pros know:


๐ŸŽฏ 1. The Preamp Is Doing Way More Than You Think

Brands like:

  • Fishman

  • LR Baggs

  • Taylor Guitars

  • Takamine

All build systems where the onboard preamp:

  • Buffers the high impedance pickup signal

  • Shapes EQ (often with fixed internal voicing you can’t change)

  • Compresses slightly

  • Cuts problem frequencies

  • Sometimes even boosts artificial “air”

Many factory systems are pre-voiced to sound impressive plugged into a store PA — not natural.

That’s why two guitars with similar pickups can sound completely different.


๐ŸŽฏ 2. Cheap Onboard Preamps Color Your Tone (A Lot)

Most factory-installed systems:

  • Run on 9V

  • Use basic op-amps

  • Have limited headroom

  • Clip easily if you strum hard

That harsh “quack” people blame on piezo pickups?

๐Ÿ‘‰ Often it’s actually the preamp distorting.

High-end external preamps (like studio DI boxes) usually sound smoother because they have more headroom and better circuitry.


๐ŸŽฏ 3. The Tuner Is Sharing Power With Your Tone

Here’s something rarely discussed:

The onboard tuner draws from the same 9V supply as your preamp.

When:

  • The battery gets weak

  • The tuner is active

  • The LED display is bright

You can lose headroom and clarity.

That subtle “why does this sound dull tonight?” issue at gigs?

Sometimes it’s just a dying battery.

Pro tip: Change your battery before it’s dead — not after.


๐ŸŽฏ 4. The Hidden EQ You Can’t See

Many systems (especially older ones) have:

  • Internal trim pots

  • Fixed mid cuts

  • Hidden high-frequency roll-offs

For example, some early Fishman systems baked in a mid scoop to reduce feedback.

That makes them sound:

  • “Nice” solo

  • But disappear in a band mix


๐ŸŽฏ 5. Why Some Pros Avoid Onboard Systems Entirely

Many touring musicians prefer:

  • Passive pickup

  • No onboard preamp

  • External high-voltage preamp or DI

Because:

  • More headroom

  • Less coloration

  • Easier repairs

  • No side-panel hole cutting into the guitar body

That side-mounted preamp panel?
It actually removes wood from a critical vibration area.

Small effect — but real.


๐ŸŽฏ 6. The Biggest Secret: Your Preamp Impedance Match Is Everything

Piezo pickups need a very high input impedance (1–10 megaohms).

If you plug a passive pickup straight into:

  • A regular amp

  • A mixer

  • A cheap DI

It will sound thin and weak.

The preamp’s main job is impedance matching — not EQ.

When that match is correct, even a basic pickup can sound surprisingly good.


๐ŸŽธ So What Should You Do?

If you want better plugged-in tone:

  1. Use fresh batteries.

  2. Try running your guitar through a high-quality external DI.

  3. Don’t overuse onboard EQ — start flat.

  4. If your system sounds harsh, the preamp is likely the bottleneck.

  5. Consider bypassing cheap onboard systems entirely.


If you want, tell me:

  • Your guitar model

  • Your current pickup system

  • Where you play (live PA, church, recording, etc.)

And I’ll tell you what’s secretly holding your tone back.

Valencia 704 and a Sanchez SFC-18 on the bench

 

Valencia 704 lowering the action

Valencia 704
Beautiful sounding guitar.  Just needed some work on the bridge saddle.  Wasn't suprised that the saddle was not worked to lower the action from the factory.
A quick sanding down the saddle to a masters level action.  Adjusted the truss rod.

Valencia 704

The Valencia has a very clean tone from the Spruce top.
She's ready to go the extra miles now.  

Sanchez SFC-18

Sanchez SFC-18
Gorgeous figuring on the back and top.

Sanchez SFC-18

Sanchez SFC-18
Polished the frets, truss rod tweak and restrung with Elixir Acoustic Guitar strings Phosphor Bronze Extra Light Gauge 10-47
Excellent sustain from this beauty!


Washburn Tidy Up

Setup and tidy up on this sweet Washburn! Cleaned and polished the brass work on the bridge.  Applied Tune-It to the nut slots and and bridge slots.  Replaced the 3 way toggle switch and the output socket.
Adjusted the action to suit the player.  



Melbourne Guitar Spa

Melbourne Guitar Spa

Melbourne Guitar Spa

H.E.R... Setup

 

Fender H.E.R Melbourne Guitar Spa

Condition, Cause, Correction Confirmed.

Pretty straight forward setup.   A few frets needed to be smoothed out.  A quarter turn of relief on the neck.

Brought the pickups down two turns to get the sweet spot.  Fender at times will run them a bit high out of the factory.  Restrung with 10-52 Elixir.  Needed to work the nut to accommodate the 10-52 strings.  Applied Tune-It the the nut slots and  to the bridge.  

It's a beautiful guitar. The finish is really sweet as well as the tone.



  

๐ŸŽธ HALF-PRICE GUITAR RESTRING & SETUP!

 ๐ŸŽธ HALF-PRICE GUITAR RESTRING & SETUP!

Melbourne Guitar Spa HALF-PRICE GUITAR RESTRING & SETUP!


๐ŸŽธ HALF-PRICE GUITAR RESTRING & SETUP! Is your guitar feeling dull, rusty or hard to play? Get fresh strings, smooth action and clean tone for 50% off! Setup is normally $90! Perfect for beginner, gigging and neglected guitars. Limited spots – book now!


๐ŸŽธ Guitar Evolution Timeline

๐ŸŽธ Guitar Evolution Timeline 


1. Ancient Lute-Like Instruments (2000–1500 BC)


Melbourne Guitar Spa

Melbourne Guitar Spa


Early long-necked instruments from Egypt and Mesopotamia are considered the first ancestors of the guitar.


2. The Oud & Medieval Lute (800–1500 AD)

Melbourne Guitar Spa



Melbourne Guitar Spa



The Middle Eastern oud and European lute shaped early guitar-like designs and playing styles.


3. Vihuela & Renaissance Guitar (1400s–1600s)

Melbourne Guitar Spa


Spain introduced the vihuela, leading to the small 4-course Renaissance guitar — the first real “guitarra.”


4. Baroque Guitar (1600s–1700s)
Melbourne Guitar Spa

Melbourne Guitar Spa


The Baroque guitar had 5 courses (pairs) of strings and replaced the lute as Europe’s favourite instrument.


5. Classical Guitar by Torres (1800s)

Melbourne Guitar Spa

Melbourne Guitar Spa




Antonio Torres redesigned the guitar with:

  • 6 single strings

  • larger body

  • modern bracing
    This is the blueprint of today’s classical guitars.


6. Steel-String Acoustic Guitar (Early 1900s)

Melbourne Guitar Spa

Melbourne Guitar spa




American makers strengthened the body to handle steel strings, creating louder, brighter guitars like the dreadnought.


7. Early Electric Guitars (1930s–1940s)

Melbourne Guitar Spa

Melbourne Guitar Spa




Pickups were added to guitars for the first time, introducing amplified playing and changing music forever.


8. Iconic Electric Guitars (1950s–1960s)

Iconic Electric Guitars (1950s–1960s)

Iconic Electric Guitars (1950s–1960s)

Iconic Electric Guitars (1950s–1960s)


The designs that defined modern music:

  • Telecaster

  • Stratocaster

  • Les Paul

These shapes and sounds still dominate today.


9. Modern & Digital Era (1980s–Today)


Modern & Digital Era (1980s–Today)

Modern & Digital Era (1980s–Today)

Modern & Digital Era (1980s–Today)




Today’s guitars include:

  • carbon fibre designs

  • 7/8-string models

  • headless ergonomic shapes

  • digital modelling and active electronics

The instrument continues to evolve.



๐ŸŽธ Shake Off the Winter Blues — Get Your Guitar Summer-Ready! ☀️

 

Melbourne Guitar Spa

If your guitar’s been hibernating all winter, it might be hiding rusty strings and tired hardware. Don’t let winter wear dull your sound! I specialize in resurrecting neglected guitars — cleaning, restringing, and restoring them to their best.

Bring your instrument back to life and get ready to play all summer long! ๐ŸŒž๐ŸŽถ

Guitar Spa – Expert Guitar Care & Repair

๐ŸŽธ Moonee Ponds Guitar Spa – Where Guitars Come to Shine! ✨

 


Dirty guitar Melbourne Guitar spa

๐ŸŽธ Moonee Ponds Guitar Spa – Where Guitars Come to Shine! ✨

Broken string? Buzzing fret? Worn-out setup? Bring your guitar in for expert repairs, maintenance, and fine-tuning. We’ll make your instrument feel brand new and sound amazing again.

๐Ÿ“ Located in Moonee Ponds
๐ŸŽถ All guitars welcome – acoustic, electric, and bass!

๐Ÿ‘‰ Book your Guitar Spa treatment today!

adam12evans@gmail.com

0432632281

Understanding Guitar Pots: Volume vs. Tone, and the Impact of Ohm Values

 

Auckland Guitar Spa Capacitor


Understanding Guitar Capacitors: Pros and Cons

Guitar capacitors often baffle many guitarists, especially those who aren't deeply familiar with electronics. Despite their small size, these components play a crucial role in shaping your guitar's tone. Understanding the advantages and disadvantages of different capacitors can help you make more informed decisions about your gear and its sound. Here's a breakdown of the pros and cons of guitar capacitors to demystify their role in your instrument.

What is a Guitar Capacitor?

Before diving into the pros and cons, it’s important to understand what a guitar capacitor is. In simple terms, a capacitor is an electronic component that stores and releases electrical energy. In electric guitars, capacitors are typically used in the tone control circuit. They work in conjunction with potentiometers (tone controls) to filter out high frequencies, allowing you to adjust the tonal qualities of your guitar.

Pros of Guitar Capacitors

  1. Tone Shaping
    One of the most significant advantages of guitar capacitors is their ability to shape tone. By filtering high frequencies, capacitors can help you achieve a warmer or more mellow sound. This is especially useful for adjusting the tone to suit different musical styles or personal preferences.

  2. Customization
    Different capacitors have distinct characteristics that can influence the tonal outcome. For example, ceramic, polyester, and paper-in-oil capacitors each offer unique tonal properties. This allows guitarists to experiment and find a capacitor that best suits their playing style and desired sound.

  3. Simplicity and Cost
    Capacitors are relatively inexpensive and easy to replace or upgrade. This makes them an accessible component for guitarists looking to tweak their sound without a significant investment. Replacing or experimenting with capacitors can be a cost-effective way to enhance your guitar’s tone.

  4. Enhanced Control
    With a capacitor in place, the tone control on your guitar becomes more effective. This enhanced control allows for a more nuanced adjustment of your sound, helping you to fine-tune your tone with greater precision.

Cons of Guitar Capacitors

  1. Complexity in Choice
    Choosing the right capacitor can be daunting due to the myriad of options available. Factors such as capacitance value (measured in microfarads, ยตF), dielectric material, and voltage rating all affect the capacitor’s performance. This complexity can be overwhelming for guitarists who are not familiar with electronics.

  2. Subtle Differences
    The tonal differences between various capacitors can be quite subtle, and in some cases, they may be difficult to discern, especially in a live setting. For some guitarists, the impact of switching capacitors might not justify the effort or expense involved.

  3. Potential for Noise
    Lower-quality capacitors can introduce unwanted noise or hum into your signal chain. It’s important to choose capacitors from reputable manufacturers to avoid potential issues with interference or degradation of sound quality.

  4. Limited Impact on Tone
    While capacitors do influence tone, they are just one part of a much larger signal chain. Other components, such as pickups, pots, and even the guitar's wood, play significant roles in shaping your overall sound. Focusing solely on capacitors may not yield dramatic changes in tone.

Conclusion

Guitar capacitors are a small yet significant component of your instrument's tone control system. Understanding their pros and cons can help you make more informed decisions about your gear. While capacitors offer valuable opportunities for tone shaping and customization, they also present challenges related to choice complexity and subtlety of effect. For guitarists looking to fine-tune their sound, experimenting with different capacitors can be a rewarding endeavor, but it’s essential to remember that they are just one piece of the tonal puzzle.

By balancing the benefits and drawbacks of capacitors, you can better navigate the world of guitar electronics and achieve a sound that’s uniquely yours.

Author:
Adam Evans

Why you shouldn't use pencil graphite on you guitar's nut

 

Graphite-with-pencil-Auckland Guitar Spa
This is how your Grand dad used to do it!

Melbourne Guitar spa
We use Tune-It Exclusively on Nuts and Saddles 

Using pencil graphite on a guitar's nut is a common practice, but it's not without potential drawbacks. Here’s why you might want to avoid it:

  1. Mess and Residue: Pencil graphite is not as clean or precise as other lubricants. It can create a mess and leave residue that might attract dust and grime, leading to potential buildup over time.

  2. Inconsistent Performance: Graphite can vary in its consistency and effectiveness. Different pencils have different formulations, so you might not get a uniform or reliable performance every time.

  3. Potential Damage: Over time, the abrasiveness of the graphite could wear down the nut, especially if it's made of softer materials. This could affect tuning stability and the overall playability of your guitar.

  4. Alternative Lubricants: There are specifically designed products like nut lubricants or graphite-based products that are formulated to be more effective and cleaner than regular pencil graphite. These alternatives can provide a more reliable and consistent lubrication without the potential downsides of pencil graphite.

Overall, while pencil graphite can be a quick and cheap fix, using dedicated guitar lubricants or products designed for this purpose might offer better long-term benefits and help maintain your guitar in optimal condition.

Author:
Adam Evans

What you need to know before you purhchase a second hand guitar.

 

When purchasing a second-hand guitar, it's important to be thorough in your inspection to ensure you're getting a good instrument for your money. Here are the key things to look for when buying a used guitar:

1. General Condition

Cosmetic wear: Check for scratches, dings, and dents. While some wear is expected, deep gouges, cracks, or significant finish wear could affect the guitar’s value and longevity.

Neck and body condition: Look for any obvious warping or damage on the neck and body. Small dents in the body or minor wear on the neck may be normal, but anything that looks out of the ordinary might be a red flag.

2.Neck

Neck warping or twisting: Look down the neck from the headstock to the body to check for any visible warping or twisting. A warped neck can make the guitar harder to play and expensive to fix.

Truss rod condition: Check if the truss rod is functional by adjusting the neck relief (if possible). If the truss rod is broken or stuck, it may be costly to repair, or the guitar may be unplayable.

Neck joint: Inspect the neck joint where it meets the body. Cracks or shifting at the joint can affect playability and sound quality.

3.Fretboard and Frets

Auckland Guitar repair

Fret wear: Look closely at the frets for signs of wear, such as grooves or flattening. Significant fret wear can cause buzzing or difficulty playing in certain positions.

Fretboard condition: Check for cracks or deep grooves on the fretboard itself, which could indicate abuse or neglect. A dry or cracked fretboard can often be restored with conditioning.

4. Action and Playability

String action: Check how high the strings are from the fretboard. High action could indicate an issue with the neck or bridge, and low action could lead to buzzing. Action can usually be adjusted, but it's good to check if any major work is needed.

Intonation: Make sure the guitar stays in tune up and down the neck. Check tuning at the open position and higher frets (like the 12th fret). If the guitar is out of tune higher on the neck, it may need adjustment or repair.

Neck relief: Check the neck relief by pressing down on the first and last frets of each string. If there is too much relief (a large gap in the middle of the neck), the truss rod might need adjustment.

5. Electronics (For Electric Guitars)

Pickups: Test the pickups by playing in both the neck and bridge positions. Make sure the switch works properly, and listen for any buzzing, hum, or loss of signal.

Knobs and switches: Check the volume and tone controls, pickup selector switch, and any other electronics for smooth operation. Static noise, crackling, or loss of signal could indicate a problem with the wiring or pots.

Jack and connections: Plug in the guitar and check the output jack for loose connections or any crackling sound when moving the cable.

6. Hardware

Tuning machines: Check the tuners for smooth operation. If they feel loose, are hard to turn, or slip out of tune easily, they might need to be replaced.

Bridge and saddles: Inspect the bridge for any cracks, loose parts, or unusual wear. The saddles (on an electric or acoustic guitar) should be firmly seated and free of noticeable grooves.

Nut and nut slots: Check the nut for wear, cracks, or loose parts. The slots should be deep enough for the strings but not too deep or shallow. Uneven nut slots can cause tuning issues or string buzzing.

7. Sound Quality

Tone and resonance: Play the guitar and listen for its tone. An acoustic guitar should ring clearly, while an electric should have a full, clean sound. If it sounds muffled, muddy, or has weak sustain, it might have structural or electronic issues.

Testing unplugged: For acoustic or hollow-body guitars, listen for how the guitar sounds when played unplugged. Dull or lifeless tones can suggest issues with the wood, construction, or finish.

Amplified sound: For electric guitars, test the guitar plugged into an amp and check for any feedback, hum, or inconsistencies in tone.

8. Brand and Model

Reputation: Consider the reputation of the guitar’s brand and model. Well-known brands like Fender, Gibson, Martin, and PRS tend to hold value better than lesser-known brands, and they may be easier to resell if you choose to do so later.

Specific issue: Some models may have known issues (e.g., certain Gibson necks are prone to breaking, or certain Fender bridges might have tuning stability problems), so it’s worth researching the particular model you're looking at.

9. Price and Value

Market value: Check the market price for similar models in similar condition. If the price seems too high or too low, ask why. A low price might indicate hidden problems, while an inflated price might not reflect the guitar’s actual worth.

Included accessories: Consider whether the guitar comes with a case, gig bag, or additional accessories like a strap, extra strings, or original paperwork. These can add value to the purchase.

10. Seller Reputation and Return Policy

Buying from a reputable source: If you're buying from a shop, check the shop's return policy, warranty, and reputation. If buying privately, ask the seller for any additional information, such as the guitar's history (was it refurbished, damaged, or repaired?).

Testing before purchase: If possible, play the guitar before committing to the purchase. If buying online, look for guarantees or a return policy in case the guitar doesn’t meet your expectations once you receive it.

Final Tip: 

If you’re new to buying used guitars or unsure about certain aspects, it may be helpful to bring along a knowledgeable friend, a guitar technician, or a luthier to inspect the guitar for you. This way, you can avoid potential problems that might not be immediately obvious to an untrained eye.

By carefully examining these areas, you can increase your chances of finding a great second-hand guitar that will provide years of enjoyment.

Author:
Adam Evans