Understanding Guitar Pots: Volume vs. Tone, and the Impact of Ohm Values

 

Understanding Guitar Capacitors: Pros and Cons

Guitar capacitors often baffle many guitarists, especially those who aren't deeply familiar with electronics. Despite their small size, these components play a crucial role in shaping your guitar's tone. Understanding the advantages and disadvantages of different capacitors can help you make more informed decisions about your gear and its sound. Here's a breakdown of the pros and cons of guitar capacitors to demystify their role in your instrument.

What is a Guitar Capacitor?

Before diving into the pros and cons, it’s important to understand what a guitar capacitor is. In simple terms, a capacitor is an electronic component that stores and releases electrical energy. In electric guitars, capacitors are typically used in the tone control circuit. They work in conjunction with potentiometers (tone controls) to filter out high frequencies, allowing you to adjust the tonal qualities of your guitar.

Pros of Guitar Capacitors

1. Tone Shaping
   One of the most significant advantages of guitar capacitors is their ability to shape tone. By filtering high frequencies, capacitors can help you achieve a warmer or more mellow sound. This is especially useful for adjusting the tone to suit different musical styles or personal preferences.

2. Customization
   Different capacitors have distinct characteristics that can influence the tonal outcome. For example, ceramic, polyester, and paper-in-oil capacitors each offer unique tonal properties. This allows guitarists to experiment and find a capacitor that best suits their playing style and desired sound.

3. Simplicity and Cost
   Capacitors are relatively inexpensive and easy to replace or upgrade. This makes them an accessible component for guitarists looking to tweak their sound without a significant investment. Replacing or experimenting with capacitors can be a cost-effective way to enhance your guitar’s tone.

4. Enhanced Control
   With a capacitor in place, the tone control on your guitar becomes more effective. This enhanced control allows for a more nuanced adjustment of your sound, helping you to fine-tune your tone with greater precision.

Cons of Guitar Capacitors

1. Complexity in Choice
   Choosing the right capacitor can be daunting due to the myriad of options available. Factors such as capacitance value (measured in microfarads, µF), dielectric material, and voltage rating all affect the capacitor’s performance. This complexity can be overwhelming for guitarists who are not familiar with electronics.

2. Subtle Differences
   The tonal differences between various capacitors can be quite subtle, and in some cases, they may be difficult to discern, especially in a live setting. For some guitarists, the impact of switching capacitors might not justify the effort or expense involved.

3. Potential for Noise
   Lower-quality capacitors can introduce unwanted noise or hum into your signal chain. It’s important to choose capacitors from reputable manufacturers to avoid potential issues with interference or degradation of sound quality.

4. Limited Impact on Tone
   While capacitors do influence tone, they are just one part of a much larger signal chain. Other components, such as pickups, pots, and even the guitar's wood, play significant roles in shaping your overall sound. Focusing solely on capacitors may not yield dramatic changes in tone.

Conclusion

Guitar capacitors are a small yet significant component of your instrument's tone control system. Understanding their pros and cons can help you make more informed decisions about your gear. While capacitors offer valuable opportunities for tone shaping and customization, they also present challenges related to choice complexity and subtlety of effect. For guitarists looking to fine-tune their sound, experimenting with different capacitors can be a rewarding endeavor, but it’s essential to remember that they are just one piece of the tonal puzzle.

By balancing the benefits and drawbacks of capacitors, you can better navigate the world of guitar electronics and achieve a sound that’s uniquely yours.

Author:
Adam Evans

Why you shouldn't use pencil graphite on you guitar's nut

 

This is how your Grand dad used to do it!

We use Tune-It Exclusively on Nuts and Saddles 

Using pencil graphite on a guitar's nut is a common practice, but it's not without potential drawbacks. Here’s why you might want to avoid it:

1. Mess and Residue: Pencil graphite is not as clean or precise as other lubricants. It can create a mess and leave residue that might attract dust and grime, leading to potential buildup over time.

2. Inconsistent Performance: Graphite can vary in its consistency and effectiveness. Different pencils have different formulations, so you might not get a uniform or reliable performance every time.

3. Potential Damage: Over time, the abrasiveness of the graphite could wear down the nut, especially if it's made of softer materials. This could affect tuning stability and the overall playability of your guitar.

4. Alternative Lubricants: There are specifically designed products like nut lubricants or graphite-based products that are formulated to be more effective and cleaner than regular pencil graphite. These alternatives can provide a more reliable and consistent lubrication without the potential downsides of pencil graphite.

Overall, while pencil graphite can be a quick and cheap fix, using dedicated guitar lubricants or products designed for this purpose might offer better long-term benefits and help maintain your guitar in optimal condition.

Author:
Adam Evans

What you need to know before you purhchase a second hand guitar.

 

When purchasing a second-hand guitar, it's important to be thorough in your inspection to ensure you're getting a good instrument for your money. Here are the key things to look for when buying a used guitar:

1. General Condition

Cosmetic wear: Check for scratches, dings, and dents. While some wear is expected, deep gouges, cracks, or significant finish wear could affect the guitar’s value and longevity.

Neck and body condition: Look for any obvious warping or damage on the neck and body. Small dents in the body or minor wear on the neck may be normal, but anything that looks out of the ordinary might be a red flag.

2.Neck

Neck warping or twisting: Look down the neck from the headstock to the body to check for any visible warping or twisting. A warped neck can make the guitar harder to play and expensive to fix.

Truss rod condition: Check if the truss rod is functional by adjusting the neck relief (if possible). If the truss rod is broken or stuck, it may be costly to repair, or the guitar may be unplayable.

Neck joint: Inspect the neck joint where it meets the body. Cracks or shifting at the joint can affect playability and sound quality.

3.Fretboard and Frets

Fret wear: Look closely at the frets for signs of wear, such as grooves or flattening. Significant fret wear can cause buzzing or difficulty playing in certain positions.

Fretboard condition: Check for cracks or deep grooves on the fretboard itself, which could indicate abuse or neglect. A dry or cracked fretboard can often be restored with conditioning.

4. Action and Playability

String action: Check how high the strings are from the fretboard. High action could indicate an issue with the neck or bridge, and low action could lead to buzzing. Action can usually be adjusted, but it's good to check if any major work is needed.

Intonation: Make sure the guitar stays in tune up and down the neck. Check tuning at the open position and higher frets (like the 12th fret). If the guitar is out of tune higher on the neck, it may need adjustment or repair.

Neck relief: Check the neck relief by pressing down on the first and last frets of each string. If there is too much relief (a large gap in the middle of the neck), the truss rod might need adjustment.

5. Electronics (For Electric Guitars)

Pickups: Test the pickups by playing in both the neck and bridge positions. Make sure the switch works properly, and listen for any buzzing, hum, or loss of signal.

Knobs and switches: Check the volume and tone controls, pickup selector switch, and any other electronics for smooth operation. Static noise, crackling, or loss of signal could indicate a problem with the wiring or pots.

Jack and connections: Plug in the guitar and check the output jack for loose connections or any crackling sound when moving the cable.

6. Hardware

Tuning machines: Check the tuners for smooth operation. If they feel loose, are hard to turn, or slip out of tune easily, they might need to be replaced.

Bridge and saddles: Inspect the bridge for any cracks, loose parts, or unusual wear. The saddles (on an electric or acoustic guitar) should be firmly seated and free of noticeable grooves.

Nut and nut slots: Check the nut for wear, cracks, or loose parts. The slots should be deep enough for the strings but not too deep or shallow. Uneven nut slots can cause tuning issues or string buzzing.

7. Sound Quality

Tone and resonance: Play the guitar and listen for its tone. An acoustic guitar should ring clearly, while an electric should have a full, clean sound. If it sounds muffled, muddy, or has weak sustain, it might have structural or electronic issues.

Testing unplugged: For acoustic or hollow-body guitars, listen for how the guitar sounds when played unplugged. Dull or lifeless tones can suggest issues with the wood, construction, or finish.

Amplified sound: For electric guitars, test the guitar plugged into an amp and check for any feedback, hum, or inconsistencies in tone.

8. Brand and Model

Reputation: Consider the reputation of the guitar’s brand and model. Well-known brands like Fender, Gibson, Martin, and PRS tend to hold value better than lesser-known brands, and they may be easier to resell if you choose to do so later.

Specific issue: Some models may have known issues (e.g., certain Gibson necks are prone to breaking, or certain Fender bridges might have tuning stability problems), so it’s worth researching the particular model you're looking at.

9. Price and Value

Market value: Check the market price for similar models in similar condition. If the price seems too high or too low, ask why. A low price might indicate hidden problems, while an inflated price might not reflect the guitar’s actual worth.

Included accessories: Consider whether the guitar comes with a case, gig bag, or additional accessories like a strap, extra strings, or original paperwork. These can add value to the purchase.

10. Seller Reputation and Return Policy

Buying from a reputable source: If you're buying from a shop, check the shop's return policy, warranty, and reputation. If buying privately, ask the seller for any additional information, such as the guitar's history (was it refurbished, damaged, or repaired?).

Testing before purchase: If possible, play the guitar before committing to the purchase. If buying online, look for guarantees or a return policy in case the guitar doesn’t meet your expectations once you receive it.

Final Tip: 

If you’re new to buying used guitars or unsure about certain aspects, it may be helpful to bring along a knowledgeable friend, a guitar technician, or a luthier to inspect the guitar for you. This way, you can avoid potential problems that might not be immediately obvious to an untrained eye.

By carefully examining these areas, you can increase your chances of finding a great second-hand guitar that will provide years of enjoyment.

Author:
Adam Evans

Keeping Your Guitar Dehumidified: Essential Tips for Preserving Tone and Structure

Keeping Your Guitar Dehumidified: Essential Tips for Preserving Tone and Structure

A guitar is a delicate instrument, and maintaining its quality over time requires attention to the environment in which it's kept. One of the most important environmental factors to control is humidity. Too much moisture in the air can lead to warping, swelling, and even cracking of the wood, while too little can cause the wood to dry out, potentially damaging the guitar's structural integrity and sound.

Here are a few tips for keeping your guitar properly dehumidified:

1. Use a Guitar Humidifier or Dehumidifier

The most effective way to manage humidity is by using a specialized humidifier or dehumidifier designed for musical instruments. In areas with high humidity, a dehumidifier can be placed in the room or even inside the guitar case to regulate moisture levels. There are many compact, battery-operated models designed to fit snugly into the sound hole or case of your guitar.

2. Monitor Humidity Levels

Invest in a hygrometer to measure the relative humidity in the room where you store your guitar. Ideally, the humidity should be between 40% and 60%. If the room is too humid, use a dehumidifier to lower the moisture level; if it's too dry, consider using a humidifier to maintain a healthy balance.

3. Store Your Guitar in a Hard Case

When not in use, keep your guitar inside a well-padded hard case. The case will offer extra protection against fluctuations in temperature and humidity, acting as a barrier to the elements. For added peace of mind, place a guitar humidifier inside the case to ensure consistent conditions.

4. Avoid Extreme Conditions

Never leave your guitar in places with extreme temperature or humidity, such as in a car, near a heater, or in direct sunlight. These conditions can lead to rapid changes in moisture levels, which are damaging to wood.

5. Check for Signs of Damage

Regularly inspect your guitar for signs of excess humidity, such as loose or bulging seams, or dryness, like cracked finish or fretboard shrinkage. If you notice these issues, it's a sign that the humidity levels may need to be adjusted.

By taking simple precautions to control humidity, you can ensure that your guitar remains in top condition, preserving its tone, appearance, and longevity for years to come.

Author
Adam Evans

Another guitar deep clean up!

 I was presented with a Stratocaster that was in desperate need of a clean up.  I had to drill out a few of the pick guard screws.  They where so rusty and soft. 

I replaced all of the screws on the guitar.  disassembled the bridge and did a metal polish job to bring it back to life. And I did a fantastic setup to the strat and it plays beautifully. 

Thankfully the new owner of the guitar will keep it tidy.  I really enjoy restoring neglected guitars. 

The Differences in Timber Used for Guitar Necks

 

The Differences in Timber Used for Guitar Necks

The choice of wood for a guitar neck plays a significant role in the instrument's tone, stability, and playability. Different types of timber influence factors such as resonance, sustain, weight, and even the feel of the neck. Here, we explore some of the most commonly used woods for guitar necks and their characteristics.

1. Maple

Maple is one of the most popular woods for guitar necks, particularly in electric guitars. It is a dense and strong hardwood that offers bright tones with excellent sustain. Maple necks are often used in bolt-on constructions, contributing to a snappy attack and clear articulation.

• Tone: Bright, punchy, with a strong midrange.
• Stability: High resistance to warping.
• Common Uses: Fender Stratocaster, Telecaster, and other bolt-on neck guitars.
• Variants: Hard maple (more stable) and roasted maple (lighter and more resistant to humidity changes).

2. Mahogany

Mahogany is a softer hardwood commonly used in set-neck and neck-through guitar constructions. It is favored for its warm, rich tone with excellent resonance. Mahogany necks often provide a smooth playing feel, making them a staple in Gibson-style guitars.

• Tone: Warm, with strong low-mids and smooth highs.
• Stability: Good, but more sensitive to temperature and humidity changes compared to maple.
• Common Uses: Gibson Les Paul, SG, and PRS guitars.
• Variants: African mahogany (lighter) and Honduran mahogany (denser with more resonance).

3. Rosewood

Rosewood is more commonly used for fretboards, but some guitar necks are made entirely from this wood. Rosewood necks offer a rich, complex tone with additional warmth and sustain. Due to its weight and cost, rosewood necks are less common than maple or mahogany.

• Tone: Warm and resonant with a full-bodied sound.
• Stability: Excellent, but heavy.
• Common Uses: High-end acoustic guitars and some boutique electric guitars.
• Variants: Indian rosewood (most common) and Brazilian rosewood (rarer and highly sought after).

4. Walnut

Walnut is an underrated choice for guitar necks, offering a balanced tone between maple and mahogany. It is moderately dense and provides a strong midrange with articulate highs.

• Tone: Balanced with good sustain.
• Stability: High resistance to warping but heavier than mahogany.
• Common Uses: Custom-built and boutique guitars.
• Variants: Black walnut (common) and Claro walnut (visually striking with tonal depth).

5. Wenge

Wenge is a dense and exotic hardwood that provides excellent stability and sustain. It has a naturally oily texture, making it smooth to play without requiring a finish.

• Tone: Strong low-mids with pronounced articulation.
• Stability: Extremely resistant to changes in humidity.
• Common Uses: High-end and custom guitars, particularly in metal and progressive rock genres.
• Variants: Dark brown with visible grain patterns.

6. Korina (White Limba)

Korina is a lesser-known but highly regarded wood for guitar necks. It offers a warm tone similar to mahogany but with slightly brighter overtones.

• Tone: Warm and dynamic, with enhanced clarity.
• Stability: Good, similar to mahogany.
• Common Uses: High-end and boutique guitars.
• Variants: White limba (brighter) and black limba (darker, more resonant).

Conclusion

Each type of wood used for guitar necks brings unique tonal and structural characteristics to the instrument. Players seeking bright tones and snappy response might prefer maple, while those looking for warmth and richness might choose mahogany or rosewood. More exotic woods like wenge and walnut offer unique tonal properties and visual appeal. The best choice ultimately depends on the player’s preference, playing style, and the overall design of the guitar.

Author:
A Evans

 My customer went to a few music shops and everyone told him it would be $300 or more to replace the pickup system.

I got it going and it sounds fantastic. Now that the pickup was repair I gave the guitar some. Polished the frets, oiled the fret board and gave it a chiropractic neck tweek. Now it sounds and plays like a dream.

I can do the same to any guitar. 

A freshen up for an old mate

She came to me pretty dirty.  Strings were shot and the frets needed polishing. Put some silk and steel on her and she's good as gold.

I can do the same for your electric or acoustic guitar.